Engine Page 1
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The engine installation was pretty easy actually... It took 2 of us about 1.5 hours to do... |
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I ended up with two new Lord mounts that came with my used engine. The mounts I got were PN: J-9613-53. I wasn't sure they would work on my installation so I called Dan at Lord Corporation [877-494-0399] and he told me they were ok. He also told me to get a pair of their J-9613-40's, which have a silicon filled sleeve around the spacer that goes between the cups. He said to put the 53's in the lower left and upper right positions, and the 40's in the other. He said this would give me "optimal" vibration dampening... I got the 40's from Aircraft Spruce... |
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At left is Lee Lesher... He is the builder of the other RV-8 in
the hanger, also co-owner of the hanger and TGP
Aviation.
At right is the chicken eating crew, from left to right: |
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Here you can see my heat box installation. The box is Van's Triangular light weight box in kit form for self assembly. Part Number = VENT TG-10 KIT, Price = $30.00 |
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I finished the heat box installation by installing the control cable... |
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| The prop flange bushings that came with the engine were
3/8", and the prop and associated hardware that came with my prop is all
7/16". In looking for a solution I came up with two alternatives;
Get new bushings from Lycoming for around $350, or send my 3/8" bushings
off to Aero Sport Power (Bart Lalonde, 800-667-0522 250-376-2955
proair@mail.ocis.net) and he
would drill and tap them to 7/16". I decided on the latter due to
the fact it was about 10 times cheaper... So on the way to the
hanger I stopped in to see one of the A&P's out at the airport for help in
getting the old ones out, and as luck would have it, he not only had some
bolts I could use to remove the old ones, he also had two sets of 7/16"
bushings, but no 3/8", so he swapped me... To remove the old bushings I used a bolt, nut, washer, and socket. See left picture... Thread the nut all the way up the bolt, put the washer on, then the socket, and thread the assembly into the bushing. Hold the bolt head with one wrench and turn the nut counterclockwise to pull the pushing out of the flange and into the socket. My bolt was a little long so once I had the bushing loose I had to tap it back in a bit to get the bolt out before I could get the bushing out, but all in all it was a breeze... To install the new bushings, use some oil or anti-seize to lube it a bit and stick it in from the back. Use another bolt with a appropriate number of spacers or washers and another socket to allow it to pull the bushing through the flange and into the socket. Using a ratchet, pulling the bushing into the flange was a simple... |
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In order to get the transducers that came with my engine monitor to fit in Van's transducer manifold and not hit the fire wall I needed a way to space the manifold away from the firewall... |
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I used a piece of scrap canopy side rail with the long side cut down, made some spacers to add strength, and match drilled it all... |
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I modified the EIS manifold pressure transducer with some aluminum scrap and nutplates so I could mount it easily... |
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Mounted here I can get to it from my access panel in the forward bulkhead... |
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